Saturday, October 26, 2013

Few surf shots & a few words



 

Here are a few pictures from last weeks' surf. . . The bottom picture is a local kid that is stoked I got this picture.. I took Kenzie for a surf lesson at La Punta (just a few blocks from home) and brought out flippers and my water housing. La Punta is an over-crowded slowbreaking left pointbreak.  It breaks right in front of rocks for the first hundred yards, then peels along the beach for the last hundred.

Notice the flag in the water shot of me.  It's a huge Mexican flag that flies proudly from their military base up the hill.  It reminds me of the giant flag that directs surfers back home in Westport, from the museum.  Hope you've all had a great week and are enjoying my short post ;) , sorry about the last short story. I didn't intend to write so much and say so little.  Just know that I could have easily written another for the following few days of surf- one that's titled, '' and Back to Being a Zero'' , or at least Average Joe.  Hurricane Raymond continued to send us pumping, messy waves with lots of wind and not many people surfing.  Every time I surf when it's 10ft or more I am filled with fear during the paddle-out.  I do have the alternative to surf La Punta, which is always half to quarter the size of Zicatela, but that's not the beach break that called me down here.

Mackenzie's birthday and Day of the Dead are coming up, so we're excited to experience the cultural holiday and eat a big fancy dinner for like twenty bucks.  November brings the end of the major swell season as well, so from here on we'll be lucky for any waves that come our way. I'm hoping I'll have more energy to practice speaking Spanish, and to listen as well..  For the first time in my life I told someone that I speak more Spanish than I understand. That was the truth.  To understand their slang on the coast is like having someone learn English in the States, but then have them travel Ireland, or the Deep South.

Peace and Hair Grease!

Nico

Monday, October 21, 2013

A bedtime story: Zero to Hero

October 20, 2013
    ¡Qué Buenåsa la vida!  What a great life!  It's like the song that just played on our little pink portable speaker when the chorus is a deep voice that says, "Everyday I see my Dream, Everyday I see my Dream."  Kind of cheesy to quote LMFAO, but who doesn't like a good chunka' cheese?  Why, just a few days ago we were gifted three half-blocks from our Israeli friends that would be leaving Mexico for Costa Rica the following evening.  What a bonus it was to receive local goat cheese (thinking of you Jess & Vivi), Eden (imported from the heavens?), and some tasty aged cheddar.  I bought a poblano pepper the size of a grown man's foot for the equivalent of 25 cents to make chile relleno, but that decadent merienda will have to wait until we build an oven out of the abandoned firepit.  For now we cut the cheese into small slices in our morning mashup of eggs and leftover frijoles y arroz.  But you have amazing cheeses at home, no? Why bother talking about queso all day, when only a short stumble to the refri (pronounced REE-FREE) will satisfy your new hunger?
    Ah yes, it was because of my cornball line above^^^ that I got off track already!!  I'll try to make sure not to type unless I'm trying to get at something; but anyone who knows me knows that in any given story, I will start seven others, and probably close half of those, while forgetting the basis of the original tale.  "Yes but you aren't speaking Nico, you're typing bro," you might say?  "Touché," I respond.  I guess I'll actually proofread this letter, unlike the previous.  Especially because I'm writing from the comfort of my hammock, and not from a stuffy room full of old PCs with sticky, sugar-stuck keyboards and funny symbols in place of the apostrophes and dashes where I'm used to finding them.  So no excuses for rambling dude!
    Alrighty then, since it's Sunday afternoon I believe I should write about the week's events (or lackthereof).  The ups-and-downs have continued, with me going from zero-to-hero in the course of the last few suns.
    Pause for waterbreak.  When I say waterbreak, I mean I have to go look for one of the trucks driving around with five gallon jugs of water that won't make me piss out my hind-end.  They pull into our dead end road almost everyday and hollar "AGUA!" to the other two households that live in this little tropical culdasack, but never at a set hour. *The first week or two they always arrived just as we had layed into our hammocks for the afternoon's plight from the sun's ferocious rays.*
    Phew.  I'm Back.  I say "phew'' because of that final hill ride coming back home.  It's the 50 meter hill climb from hell, and it's not even that steep!  I think the sun stretches the hill a full football field longer than it appears, like a mirage penetrating the body's sore limbs..  Or maybe I say "phew" because Mackenzie has changed the music during my 15 minute bike ride around the pueblo, and is now doing Shaun T's Insanity workout again.  Having experienced the "insanity'' workout myself, I swear I break into a sweat each time I hear his intro spiel. . . Even if it's recovery day.
    But no, I reckon (Aussie-talk) my phewness can be attributed to the fact that I have come up empty on my search for one of the water trucks.  I should have asked the neighbors if they drive around on Sundays, before disrupting my writing and heading down the hill in search of someone that couldn't be found working on their only day off.  That's how it is on Sundays here.  We usually plan accordingly and buy everything we need on Saturdays to prevent a situation like this, but it was only the evening before last that we purchased a jug ( at 13 or 14 pesos, just barely over a buck.  * Quite a bargain when compared to the liter or liter and a half bottles coca cola sells disguised as a local company.)  I guess when we're princesses and insist on boiling already pure water for coffee and tea, we'll go through more.. It just taste so much better that waaaayyy. - this was my whiney voice if you mistook it for me teasing Mackenzie.
   We know the pena of waiting too long to buy water.  Remember when I said I've gone from zero-to-hero in a matter of days?  Well Friday was rough.  I went to bed Thursday excited to surf the following morning, now that my magic carpet was repaired and I'd been off for three long days, but when I awoke, a gigantic gas bubble was lurking about in my mid-section.  "No big deal," I thought.  "Just my normal morning chore".  OOOOHHH but NOOOO.  Absolutamente No. In the course of the first half hour I would drain all the liquid from my body, and quite possibly some intestines that aren't so necessary.  By the third sprint to the toilet, I counted myself out of the day's activities.  I cursed the spirits of Mescal, and cursed my stomach for being so weak.  It was only two margaritas!  (Homemade from our own lemon and lime trees, and with the most natural brick of brown sugar you've ever never had.)
    So another day of laying around in the hammocks: reading books, bird watching, and hiding from the sun.  It wasn't so bad, but after I shat my brains out for what I prayed would be the last time, I was left feeling like a sack of rocks.  Or a bag of cement left out in the rain.  Stiff and sore as I've ever felt, all I wanted was rest.  Rest and water.  We were down to our final quart and a half in the fridge (we have three reusable bottles we brought from home (would be four but I forgot my eldest bottle in my padre's car) when Mackenzie made me a cup of ginger and honey tea to help settle mi panza enojada, or furious belly.  This would be the only thing I could stomach for the morning and afternoon combined, although I sincerely wished for more fresh water.
   I did manage to take my second nap of the trip on this miserable Friday morning, and I woke up feeling a bit better: still like an empty casket, but at least I no longer felt like using the insurance puke pot that lay below my hammock.  *On the napping note, I wonder why I haven't been able to sleep during the de-energizing afternoon hours. ?  In Puerto Rico I caught zzz's like it was mandatory (between the late morning surf and afternoon bike ride to work).  My only two naps here have come at the hands of aweful sickness, (which doesn't feel like any hangover I swear), and on our first afternoon in PE, after a couple long days and nights in transit.* Anyway after the two hours of unconcious bliss, I come-to slowly, hoping that I slept through the water truck transaction.  One look to the cabaña tells me "No".  The empty bottle still sits on the cement wall, silently beckoning to the neighbors or any other people of good will, "WE NEED WATER! STOP THE WATER TRUCK!"
    I come from a man who comes from a man with scarcity issues.  My grandpa (if I was proper I'd say grandfather, eh?) was a boy during the Great Depression, so he's got good reason and conditioning to attribute this to.  My dad's excuse?.., well it's handed down I think.  So now I have it.  Whenever we get a fresh water jug, I unseal the lid and fill up all the bottles we have, watching it empty about a third to half of the way.  You might be doing the quick math and question how I get half of five gallons when filling up our three reusable water bottles from home?  Well I haven't yet told you that we bought a liter bottle the day we arrived, and a liter and a half bottle later that same day.  That cost us 20something pesos, when five gallons is barely a buck!  So we've managed to reuse those two bottles everyday, and only once had to buy another liter and a half when we were at Playa Zicatela longer than expected one insane morning/afternoon.  Add those and the two pint size gatorades we use for ice blocks and we're looking at somewhere around two and a half gallons, right Ms. Hulbert?
     Point is I start to freak a little when I see the jug two-thirds empty (not being cynnical here, just trying to take care of Mackenzie and me).  I should have gone for water the evening before when we had just half a gallon left!  Now we're left sucking water out of our ice cube trays!  And Mackenzie is attempting to climb the coconut trees!  Sheesh, all I can do as man of the cabaña is offer meager advice like , "that one's the shortest of our lot," or "be careful babe".  Her attempt to bring in the electrolytes and my distrust of the freezer-burnt precipitation lying on top of the ice cubes fuels me just enough to leave my yard of confinement.  By now it is late afternoon and the two or three trucks will be scouring the streets looking to unload the last of their cargo.  As I pull myself out of the shade and head for my bike, I swear I see the flash of blue bottles zip by the road a block away.  Why wouldn't he stop and check our road?  I don't think I'm hallucinating yet, but if I don't come back with the truck behind me, I may be soon.
    I jump on the old white & teal nishiki ten speed we had fixed up for $28 *property of the homeowner's* and start on my quest.  A quick hop through the gate and a few lackluster peddles takes me to the main road where I may have seen the water truck.  I turn right down the hill and see that , "SI, HAY!" , Yes there is!  It takes a left at the second corner, so I quickly make chase, and cruise down the hill.  When I get to the first intersection, I slow down because I know  that as bad as I feel now, I could feel a lot worse if I kiss someone's windshield.  For some reason I glance to the left as I'm almost through the intersection.  THERE IT IS!  My delirium has me unable to count corners!  I flip a U'y and as I pull onto the road it was last seen, I catch the tail end of the truck turning left, bottles gleaming in the sun like a lephrocon's gold.  I kick it into high gear and stand up as I peddle, adrenaline now catching on to the chase.  I keep my eye on the truck, hoping he has no success on this block, knowing he could be down to his last jug at this hour.  As I appoached the corner last taken, I was anticipating his next turn.  Sure enough he doubled back on me, taking another left-hand turn and back towards the hillside he went.  I wasn't going to follow this guy very long, my adrenaline would only take me so far, and I still had the 150 yard hillclimb.  So I made for the corner where I was hesitant to speed through the first time, feeling like Mrs. Pacman when she eats a button and is going to intercept a yummy ghost at the corner just behind her.
    Sure enough, as I make my right to head up the hill, the water-guy makes his left, right towards me.  Rather than weap with joy, scream "AGUA," or ask for a ride to the top of the hill, I act like I've flagged down a truck before, and hold my pointer finger parallel with the cement, pointing to the other side of the road, while not pointing at all.  His face is unfamiliar, and he's working alone.  No wonder he didn't stop by our road.  He must deliver to the other parts of town, and may be trying to pawn the last bottles of the night off on someone elses' customers.  As we pass eachother, my dry-mouth is able to choke out the words, "arriba la loma".  Up the hill.  And I continue up the hill, maybe happier than the driver.  *Maybe not, he had three bottles left to sell, and took the hill in reverse. The whole way. *
    So that's the happy ending to my feeling like a zero, but nooo , I'm still not a hero, not in my own mind yet. The hero story comes from this morning's surf session, but first, let me tell you that when I came back to the property after my five minute chase, Mackenzie had used her Noggin and created a tool to capture cocos.  She hadn't quite muscled any free yet, but the system was in place and after a quart or two of rehydration I would be able to get a couple down for the following day.
    Alright so moving past the days of rest when my board was being fixed, and onto the two great surf sessions that have transpired.  Let's start with yesterday morning, because that's what came first.  And because if I were to tell you about this morning's waves before telling you about the goods and the bads of yesterday's, you'd lose interest or wonder why I even bother with stories of failure and disappointment.  But that's what this is all about right?  Being strong and holding your head up high when you've got a bad taste in your mouth, so that your success is that much sweeter.  Order comes from Chaos; so in surf, it takes trial and error before getting to the sweet spot.
    As I've mentioned before, the sweet spot for the wonderful world of surf is underneath the curl of the wave, tucked into the barrel.  Even better yet, the sweetest spot is when a person is under the hood, and sees the light at the end of the tunnel.  Yesterday morning, I had a tough time finding the light to guide me safely out of any barrels.  The waves were small though, and finding the right wave that would allow anyone to escape its' pounding was quite a challenge.  It didn't help that the lineup was packed, with around 30 people at each of the four peaks.  I barely stretched since we had risen slow, and I wanted some barrel opportunities before the wind switched to onshore *clearing the water out in MINUTES*.  I paddled out at the west end where the peak of the swell always hits, usually 2-3 times the size of the furthest east peak.  Today that meant overhead tubes on the small inside waves, and overhead and a half on the set waves, with a few 10 ft waves to be had at best.
    In a playing field three to four hundred yards long, I know that it doesn't matter too much where I sit and wait for waves.  They'll come.  So when the crowds shift one direction during a set, I find the opening they just left.  After a few minutes of being in the water, I'm able to assess where a peak may come, when others are looking for the huge wave that just occurred over there.  This is my approach.  I don't sit on people (meaning i don't paddle under them and sit two arm lengths away, paddling when they paddle, and in the same direction all the time), and I'm usually happy with taking the scrap waves.  To establish oneself in a lineup and gain better position than a seasoned local oftentimes takes years.  I only have weeks.  So I take what I can get, I stick to myself (i say Buenas to anyone I make eye contact with), and I give my girlfriend a big hug and a kiss when I'm back on the beach.  La vida buenåsa.
*I can't seem to find the accent mark over the "a" or "o" .
    Anyway I surfed yesterday , sin leash.  Sin is without, and pronounced SEEN.  At first, it was liberating!  Compared to taking off the booties after a long winter in Washington, and surfing with barefeet touching the board!  Ah, to minimalize. . . The waves felt good too.  I snuck a few gems in over on the edge, before some young locals about my age or a bit younger came over and sat on me.  Everytime the wave closed out and swallowed me, I'd appear on the surface, surprised to see my board waiting safely an arms length away.  This went on for a bit, until I finally had to swim into the beach to grab my board.  I paddled back out, got the next good wave that was closing out, and had to swim in again.  Rats!  The second time wasn't as fun, and the board floated down the beach with the current, so I had to track it down 40 yards away.
    Now the session has drug itself along, and many of the early morning surfers were on their way to breakfast, so the crowd thinned out quite a bit.  More barrel chances!  After duckdiving another half dozen- ten waves, I make it to the lineup that has drifted to where I just sat.  I choose to switch them spots, and paddle to the open space where I know a left breaking wave will appear if I just have patience.  Sure enough, as soon as two guys paddle down to join me, the wave comes.  A perfect peak, and I'm in the takeoff spot.  I paddle, and in the back of my mind wonder if one of these guys will drop in on me, ruining my barrel chance.  Well this wonder might have been in the front of my mind, because something effected my drop and I absolutely blew it.  Rather than drop into a beautiful barrel, I dig my nose into the water and faceplant on the takeoff.  What a disgrace.  To make matters worse, my board has disappeared, and I can already see a group of gaggling older gringos taking pictures of the board and kindly waving to me that they have it.  All I could do was slap water and use swear words in my native language.  *Not sure this counts as keeping my head high, but I was where nobody could hear me.*
    The Germans handed me the board back, and said they could tell I was mad, all while laughing and smiling the day away.  A couple times they said "Scheitza" or however you spell it, and I repeated it back to them with a smile, much to their agrin.  After this third trip back into the shore, and too many blown waves in a 30 minute period, I went back to see my beautiful girlfriend who was now surrounded by seven dogs.  I thought she had some food in her bag they smelled, but she informed me that a female dog in heat had chosen her as a sitting partner, and all the other dogs would hang around as well.  Before my drink of water and kiss was up, the female dog decided to move on.  I grabbed the leash from the backpack and strapped it on, silently admitting failure for the session.
    The rest of the session is nothing to brag about.  At all.  In fact, I'm going to end it now by saying this: people that drop in on others are low-life scum bags who don't respect themselves, others, or the beach they surf at.  Maybe we are all like the dogs on the beach, fighting for the One.
    Greener pastures, brighter days, juicier fruits, bigger barrels.  Almost synonymous right?  Yesss, this is what I'm here for.  I set a goal and start to vision my journey toward this achievement.  The flights that would be taken, the taxi ride to the bus station, the long 20 hours by bus endured (the road from Acapulco was washed out from the monsoons, forcing us to take a much longer route via the south), all to arrive at our set destination.  But just because I've made it here safely does not mean I can easily plug right into a deep tube, like the charging of an Ipod or camera battery.  Oh no, I've got to earn that prize.  Nearly three weeks of battling the crowds, currents, sun, and my worst enemy- myself, have left me with more blown barrels than I've successfully ridden out of.  I've had some awesome rides, not to take anything away from those, but they've all been stepping stones for what lies ahead.  Every air-drop, wipeout, nose-dive, and mini-tuberide have set me up for el éxito (success in spanish) that I can taste just a few adjustments away.
    With this wonderful taste on the tip of my tongue, I make the prediction to Mackenzie yesterday afternoon that I would be exiting a barrel today.  And a good deep one.  Not just the quick cover-up kind, or the one that I described last week when the Long Brothers where out.  That one was good, but someone on the beach watching straight ahead would be able to see my board the whole ride. . . I want to disappear and be written off by any lucky bystanders, only to reappear in the closing seconds of the wave, screaming out of the barrel with the spit, at mach speeds baby.  That's what I want.
    So this morning I woke up and made a light breakfast for the two of us: 3 fried eggs to share, with a little bit of bread and guacamole (Kenzi made the Guac), and a very unsuccessful coffee that took more time than the eggs.  *We were really excited about the insane quality of cocoa we're lucky enough to buy since we're here in Oaxaca (pronounced Wu-hah-kuh) for only $4 a pound.*  The only reason it was unsuccessful is that the end of our milk box was sour.  But a little bit of sour milk goes a long way.
    I thought it was going to be another crowded small day at the best shorebreak in the world, but when our $2 taxi ride dropped us off, my mind was blown.  The surf forecast had it wrong, or at least didn't take into account the lightening storm that had passed a day or two earlier and gone offshore, creating a really sizeable windswell.  The waves resembled our PNW's rough wind-chopped waves more today than any other day I've seen them here, and to me were quite inviting.  I could tell it may be unpredictable to time the paddle out today, with waves crashing every six to eight seconds at best.  *For all non-surfers, the longer the period between waves in a set, means the further they are coming from, and generally with more power. 6-8 seconds is practically nothing*  But I was not complaining.  The crowd was much less, since the new day brought waves of consequence, and there were tubes to be ridden!  I definitely wasn't taking the camera out on my wrist like I thought I was going to do for the first time!
    I warmed up slower today, so I could watch the peaks and analyze where they broke best, worst, and most round.  I watched the currents of the water on the inside and found where the channel swept back to the outside, taking surfers and boogers safely to the lineup in between sets.  I noticed the wind coming out of the north-east today, a bit different than the direct offshore that this beach is used to in the morning.  The hint of east wind shaped the waves to have little steps on the face, an added difficulty when dropping into and trying to navigate the bumpy wall, but nothing out of the ordinary for a kid who learned how to surf in gnarly wind-skewed conditions.  It actually was a bit inviting, looking like another really good day at the cove, but 40 degrees warmer.
    After giving Mackenzie un beso, I tightened the blue hay bale string I Jimmi-rigged as a belt to my oversize but comfortable board shorts, and was on my way. I barely had time to say my paddle-out-prayers before the current landed me right into the action, and presented me with a good inside wave that would have been at least overhead and a half, had I gone for it.  I let the next one go by as well, thinking that I was in the channel and not in the lineup I wanted to be in.  As it turns out, I should have gone for either one; to establish myself in the ocean and create a rythm for my session.
    Since I didn't go for one of the two smaller waves that came my way, Mother Ocean threw beast after beast at me, laughing as I pulled out of a Monster that I was in prime position for(it was such a thick wave and when I was looking over the edge I could see it starting to break at least 30 yards down. Maybe this would have been a ginormous backdoor barrel, or maybe it would have snapped my board like a twig.) I didn't feel so bad about this, even though I chickened-out in the face of the rest of the guys duckdiving, because the roar of her laughter was deafening as the rest of the lineup paddled over the tops of every other bomb she sent our way.  Only once in the first half hour did anyone try to tame this angry mamå.  It was a local boogie-boarder taking a 15 ft drop (maybe more), dragging his kahunas down the face as he disappeared under the curtain.
    Passing up the first few big opportunities for glory had its' cost.  The lineup was swept down by the current to a sandbar known as Carmelita's, and no one wanted to sit here today.  It took 10-15 minutes of non-stop paddling to get back into position for the left breaking wave that lines up with the lifeguard tower, and a body would need at least a hundred seconds to rest before attempting another wave.  That's about how long I waited before a set came, my position being perfect for the second wave.  I started remando tan duro (paddling so hard) and was in a super deep position for this beautiful baby.  Unfortunately my lack of kahunas during the first half hour had given a guy to the left of me enough sense to size me up, and think I might pull out at the last second again.  So I understood this and wanted him to have the wave if I was going to wuss-out again.  I didn't have the confidence that I needed, so I didn't whistle him off.  I ended up making the steep drop to the bottom, while he cut me off and stood tall in the tube.  *not sure if he made it out, I was more concerned about the ocean behind me, exploding on the shallow sandbar and sending whitewater nearly two stories in the air (seriously).*
    Sweet, I can do this.  I just did.  Now I've just gotta get back out there and call off the other guys if they look like they're gonna shoulder-drop somewhere down the line.  I duckdive the whitewater to a few big waves, and the underwater current helps pull me right out, and I'm back in the channel-with renewed confidence :).  A boogie-boarder does a celebratory spin on the curl of a wave, after exiting the tube (success in spanish is éxito remember?) and I tell him "good wave" in English.  Aussies almost never speak a lick of Spanish, so why bother making them uncomfortable?  We're both stoked, so we chat for a bit about our trips, and he informs me he and his girlfriend will be heading to the Yucatan soon.  I share my fear with him, and he says he understands.  I pull out a line one of the locals said to me in broken English back in Montañita, Ecuador, "It's only water bro".  *I'd snap my board 10 minutes later.! Water and REEF!*  ...  The Aussie's response is similar to my thoughts then, " yeah, and a super shallow sandbar!"
    But now my confidence is high, and I'm determined to get pitted.  We both make our way to the left peak where I'd been before, and where he caught his gem just moments ago.  I was just getting settled into position when a little nugget made its' way to me.  I kept paddling until I was lying vertical on the wave, suspended like a lizard or ant on a wall.  The millisecond after I felt this oddity, I pushed the board down and slid to my feet, still in freefall.  I shifted the weight to my back foot and toes (I ride goofy foot and that means my toes point left, in the direction of this wave) and feel the glide of Her Love underneath.  From here, she does the work. The wave stands up even taller as it runs down the line, throwing large drops of its' oceanic body over my shoulder, protecting me from the sun.  I'm caught by surprise and I duck after-the-fact. No need to duck into any barrels today, these are the green rooms we've been waiting for boys! WOOOOP!  I glide the fingers of my left hand along the wall and feel God.  She is Lovely.  I enjoy every second and millisecond I get to be in the Temple, surrounded by Her Natural Glory.  I see this moment coming to an end so I release my fingers acting as brakes and hit the accelerator by leaning the weight to my front foot and give it one highline pump.  An exit opens up for me and I take it, just as the wave connects with the "right breaking wave" and they fold over in unison.  *not the clean exit out the end with the spit I know, but also not through the doggy-door*
*Well, kind of a doggy-door exit*
    Organized Chaos, and it's here for the taking.  Perfect tubos pealing down the same shallow sandbar, takeoff spot shifting 10-30 yards in any direction, depending on the size and direction of the swell that hits.  There's only one thing to do, and sometimes I need a friend to remind me of this: ¡Dale dale dale! GO GO GO!  (not pronounced like the name of one of the chipmunks, but rather dah-ley)
    But not today!  I'm now my own best friend, and I've got my own voice in my head for encouragement.  "I've got to get another! But I want to be deeper on the next! " So I endure the turbulance of the paddle out and sit next to a different Aussie bruh whose hanging out in the channel, claiming that the bonus nugs coming in are where-it's-at.  I like that there's nobody else with us, so I have a gander.  A small left peak heads my way with purpose, and I paddle hard to the inside to see what's in store... The wave doesn't let me in early or easy, and I was at the top of a small cliff when I had the decision to pull out or late drop in.  I chose the latter and it was a good decision.  The air drop in was something like vertigo; my mind taking a break and allowing muscle reflexes to take over.  It was one big swooping drop, where as soon as I felt my feet on the board I had to carve sideways and head down the line if I wanted any chance of exiting this thing.  Almost instantly the lip threw over as far as I could see.  I recognized this as another Mexipipe closeout, but it was bliss.  I took the moment in and enjoyed the glow of the sun shining through curl.  The overhead and a half tube (so like 7-8 ft) was about to go dark, so I dove off the board in the direction my instincts told me to take.  I resurfaced on the inside, watching as the Aussie pulled out of the next three waves, each closing out violently.  Yes, I made the right decision.
    Ah man, so that's three waves today with one éxito!  But they all feel like success to me.  ¡Qué una vida!  I can't end on that insider, so I paddle back out, this time not stopping in the channel.  I head straight to the left peak at "middles" and line myself up with the lifeguards (salvavidas, or literally "saves lives").  I don't see anyone I recognize besides the guy in green that cut me off on my first wave.  I offer a friendly "buénas" to a latino boogy boarder and park my ride 10 yards outside him and his two other amigos on their sponges.  My 6'8'' is going to get me into the next big peak nice and early, I can feel it.
    Not three minutes pass, and a set approaches.  The first one isn't big enough to break where I'm sitting, and one of the spongers snags it amidst the encouragement of whistles and coyote calls from his mates.  While they're focusing on the first wave I'm getting into position for the second, my stomach lurching up into my chest with obvious nerves.  "What're you doing bro?! You're not paddling for the shoulder! If you don't make this drop I won't get a breath for quite awhile!" , the stomach contests from its' hiding spot.  My confidence is peaking and I ignore this fear, paddling as hard as ever for the bottom.  As soon as I feel the lift from the swell, I counter with a kick down the face and push the board under my feet.  I'm on top of the peak looking down the line at 30 yards of waveface ready to throw over, just being delayed for a brief moment by the wind.  I can tell I stood up at the exact time needed for this beast, and I engage the toeside rail of my board and find my balance with the watermountain.  This has the nose of my board pointing straight down the line, due west.
    The offshores did their job long enough and in a second I find myself standing the deepest darkest waterpit I've ever been in.  The lip was so thick with water that no sun rays were going to get through the curtain, and I was left to search out the light at the end of the tunnel.  Holy Smokes where is it?!  For a few long moments I thought I would get slammed onto the ocean floor, but then I felt a bump under my feet and a second drop took place, lowering me in the barrel instantly.  Alas! There's the outrance (like entrance, but , you know, the opposite) and the lip way out in front of me throwing some more water for an even longer tube!!! MUHUHAHAHAA  I CAN TASTE IT!! ¡´Exito! ..  But I can tell She wants me here in Her Temple for another few moments, so i put my hand in and feel Her power, slowing me down and keeping me in the shade.  Then i get the message to get a move on, and I let go, flying out with the excess air that was in the tube.  The firehose spray I've been waiting for. 10/20/2013. A historic day for me.
    I am eternally grateful to be alive.  When I exit, I raise both arms to the sky and look up dramatically at the clouds, as if the God of my childhood had gifted me this opportunity.  But that's not really why I threw my arms in the air, I don't have a reason.  It was instincts.  An appreciation for all things on Earth and in the Skies.  A gratuity towards the incredible Pacific Ocean behind me.  This is Heaven on Earth, and all that I know, so I intend to live as if it's the only Kingdom of Heaven we get.  One shot to do WTF we want, and leave it all behind us.
    Thanks for listening friends.  Enjoy your momentitos.  Your precious little moments.

Take care of yourselves and others,
Nicolas Reese

Wednesday, October 16, 2013

Quick msg home


    So after a great homemade breakfast today we walked around "la punta" to our own secluded beach for a bit of full-body sun lovin if you know what I mean ;), and on the way back we stopped for a swim at la punta, just blocks from our cabin.  This was inspired by my beautiful niece and nephew; and I could probably have just sent the video to their mamas, but we do wish we could fit you all in our carry-on luggage, so here's to you :)

Tuesday, October 15, 2013

Ups and Downs

October 15th, 2013

    This trip has been a lot of ups, and almost no ''downs''.  That is, until yesterday.

    What I'm about to describe would definitely receive zero sympathy and a smart-alec comment such as, ''here, let me play the worlds' smallest violin for you'' , or , '' now THAT is a first world problem'' , or quite possibly , ''get over it whiner'' from myself if I were to be on the other end of this trip, pouring cement in the hott sun everyday for under $20 a day, or any other long hott job that pays nothing and demands their life's precious energy and time.  So I'm happy to tell you that I've already accepted life as it has occurred in the past 18 hours, and will not deliver this as a poor-me story.  I'm lucky and/or blessed to have been born in the United States at their height of supremacy and reign as holder of global currency.  (reading the news lately about the whole default thing ( and China's response) tells me that taking a vacation while these US dollars still exchange for a helluva lot more paper bills, was in fact, a great idea.)

    Anyway, you could talk economics or politics with me day and night (you might have already) , but I don't really want to while I'm enjoying my luxuries in paradise.  Or because I know it's out of my control, and probably destined to go downhill before Love and Light can restore this Heaven we have on Earth.  So at this brief time in History, we're at the mercy of a teeny tiny group of ugly, psychotic politicians, who should be wearing the corporations' logos on their three piece that they really represent.  ¡Harumph!

    See how I get the last word in?  ; )

    So yeah, back to the subject at hand: a bit of crap luck. . .
...
...
    Yesterday began as any other might; waking up a half hour or two after the sun, brushing my teeth and waxing my board while the water heats up for tea.  When it reaches a boil, I take off the kettle and make a couple over-easy eggs to put on a slice of our beautiful pan integral (whole wheat bread loaf).  (For the time being, the cabaña has no gas, so we're using a single burner that plugs into the wall outlet.)  I smash the light breakfast, pound the lemon/honey/ginger tea, and give my beautiful girlfriend a kiss and tell her to enjoy her Insanity workout, and I start my 1/2 mile jog to the main road  to catch a camioneta that will take me down to the best shorebreak in the world...  I could wait for the micro bus on the corner that is supposed to come every half hour, but it's as reliable as our US congress, so I enjoy the smiles of the neighbors and the cool morning temperatures.  Once getting to the top of the hill, maybe a hundred yards to the main road, I see the bus pull into the road, and know by now it is more time efficient to catch the camioneta, so, ''no pasa nada'';

    After my warm up run, and quick 3 minute lift down the bay, I am feeling good to stretch on the beach and watch how the sandbars are working... It appears small (overhead at best) , so I stretch longer than normal because I'm not super stoked. Then, after about 12.5 minutes, while loosening up my quads, I see a sweet set blow up two of the sandbars right in front.  They are solid double overhead, and there's practically no one out!  WOOO!  I run from my spot in the shade under a palm tree and am paddling out within the same minute.

    I'm going to spare you the details of this session, but just know that it was one of my best days at Puerto, as I caught more waves than any other day for sureski.  I did blow a barrel opp, and wish I could have it back, so I'll tell ya bout it.  .  .  .  Ok so after surfing the two peaks I usually sit at, I saw a guy pull into a beautiful 10 ft tube and get bucked off at the last second, just before he came out with the spit.  I paddled down to give it a go, and ended up looking at a small moving mountain coming straight at me.  Dudes were whistling and I was the only one in the area to catch this small beast.  I froze for a few long seconds, trying to read its' speed and direction, finally getting a bead on it and knowing i needed to kick it into gear or I'd be thrown with the lip.  I got a few strong paddles in and took a long drop to the bottom , while the wave took off on me down the line.  I tried to bottom turn and pull into the barrel, but it outran me and the lip detonated on my board and I was sent to the ocean floor.  What i needed to do, was to pigdog the drop, grabbing outside rail and wave face, while staying high tight under the lip of the wave.  A long drop and bottom turn was not the right call.

    So I surfed until I couldn't paddle anymore, and went home to prepare lunch with Mackenzie.  We finished off the shrimp and dorado ceviche with the last of our saltines, had a cup of coffee, and prepared some rice for the dorado filets we'd be cooking when we got back from the three hour volunteer session at the free library down the hill from our cabin.

   This volunteer opportunity was pretty fun, and one that we both felt like we were actually needed for (we were volunteers in Ecuador for the first 9 weeks of our trip and it was worthless to everyone involved except the company receiving our paper money).  We arrived and introduced ourselves to Tinca, a retired ex-pat whose house was finished down here in March.  She volunteers on Mondays, and today (yesterday) was filling in for the normal gal that runs the program.  It was slow at first, but after 30 minutes kids that had just been let off from their first day of school (teachers all over the country were protesting tax increases in Mexico City for the first 6 weeks when school would normally be in session) came strolling in 6 by 6, hollaring for Lucia or Wendy.  ''No esta '' : She's not here. We'd reply.  Pero, podemos leer, y jugar. But we can read and play =D

    You could tell that the kids were pretty bummed and not sure what to do about their friend not being here to read or play games with them, but as it was 90 degrees out and they were still in uniform , the 5 gallon jug of water was a good ice-breaker.  More and more kids came in to return books, and choose new ones.  I watched as Tinca recorded in a worn down notebook who brought what back, and who was checking out different books this week.  As she handled requests of six little yelling kids in a language that is still semi-new to her (she drove down here six years ago by herself, and knew not a lick of spanish beforehand), I knew i needed to help entertain some of the other energetic young'ns.  I took a seat at one of the tables and told one of the youngest to pick out a book for me to read to them.  This was able to keep four little ones entertained for the most part of an hour (ok I only had two of their attention for that whole time), and it took seven or eight books before I was finally able to make it all the way to the end before they had run and picked out a different book that was more important to read than the current.

    Every couple books, I'd get the same question: can we play games yet?  Now, I'm not one to say NO to a kid, so it was good when the dominant Tinca hollared A LAS TRES when I fielded the question for the first time.  After that, the line was drawn and no one was arguing, just checking to see if it was time yet for games.  Finally three o clock came, and Kenzie and my stomachs were beginning to rumble, thinking of the dorado filets that await just 3 blocks away, but we were determined to sit out the last hour with the kids and Tinca.  Somehow, we were forgotten by the kids, and left to play some janga with the only padre who came to sit in during the 1-4 community library hours.  It turns out that this padre is our neighbor, and the cutest kid that we were reading to is his son, Orlando.

    Felix spent some time in Colorado, working at McDonalds and shovelling snow on the side.  He gave it up four years ago to be back at home with family, friends, and the tropical beach lifestyle.  It felt good to finally make real acquaintance with our neighbors, rather than just the friendly buenos dias, buenas tardes, o buenas noches.  He is located across the path from us, (I say path because the road ends and it is a path. There are only 3 houses in our little street, and both the other two are family.)  but we have a bunch of squash bushes and tropical fruit trees dividing the two, so it is hard to ever see him over there...  Before we had left the cabin when we were preparing the rice and cleaning the fish Mackenzie had suggested giving some of the filets to the neighbors, since we bought over two pounds and barely used any in the ceviche Saturday.  I shrugged it off at the time, knowing it was a good idea, but wanted to officially meet one of them first; so when we met Felix and little Orlando, there was no doubt they'd be eating some good fish that night.
We offered it to Felix and he told me to talk to abuela, because she does the cooking.

    So an hour later, after eating our pan fried fish with garlic, onions, lemon, and half cooked tomatoes , I peaked through the fence and could make out the grandma of the house, busy washing dishes.  ''ABUELA'', I called.  ''Si?'' , she replied.  ''I met Felix today, and we have some dorado that needs to be cooked today.  We bought it 2 days ago and it's been in the refrigerator.  Would you like it?'' - (in spanish of course)   ''How much you want for it?''  ..  ''Nothing'' I say..  ''Ah, a gift, yeah bring it over!''

   I had her smell it, to make sure she thought it was ok, and she said ''claro que si''.  So I was glad we didn't just eat, or gift, rotten fish.  I also asked her if she had a name I could call her, or if ''grandma'' is how she wants to be greeted. ''I'm everyone's grandma around here, and it's much shorter. Yes, call me abuela.''

  This is where things start to turn on me.  After letting the food settle a bit by laying in a hammock reading, both Kenzie and I got our surf stuff together and walked down to the hill together.  Since I had such a great session earlier in the morning, I was greedy and wanted some more of those thrilling drops and barrel opps. I promised Mackenzie that I would take her surfing the following day and the day after, since the swell would be dropping a bit, but I still had a strange feeling in my gut when we kissed goodbye.

    Kenzie goes to the crowded pointbreak that is just blocks from our house, and I make the half mile walk to the road, only this time today, I'm sore as ever.  During one of my wipeouts in the morning, the wave grabbed the leash and pulled really hard, yanking my left leg with it in a super uncomfortable manner.  So I wasn't feeling great, and the onshore wind was still strong, but i continued to butt heads with my gut feeling.

    When I was walking down the hill to the beach, I noticed for the first time that halfway down the rightside of my board there is a small ding that would allow water in.  Surfing on the board would now be ignorant or stupid.  So I continued to the beach.  While I stretched, the waves looked like garbage.  So i paddled out.  The waves were chopped up from the days' onshore wind, and breaking faster than normal (which is already SOO FAST ) , and people were dropping in on each other almost every wave.  I could barely make it to my feet each time I attempted, and was not feeling it, so I got out a half hour before sunset (absolutely gorgeous sunset was occurring), and went to look for Edwin the water photographer who I was supposed to meet around 6pm.  I walked up to the lifeguard tower and asked for him, and they pointed to the patch of grass near the boardwalk. As i came near, I said his name and smiled.  He looked right through me, and got up and walked away with a couple friends.  It was weird because that morning he had recognized me in the water and come up to tell me about the picture and wanted to sell me the series or a shot.  Why would he walk away from money?

    I'm not one to appear needy, or desperate, so I didn't chase after him.  I merely walked the opposite direction in search of a ding repair guy.  The first place I came to showed me that my ding on the rail actually goes all the way through to the other rail, and has a major bump in the middle along the stringer on the topside.  Their estimate was 300 pesos, but their attitudes were garbage so I didn't want to support them.  I walked up the hill and caught the next truck back to la punta.  I watched as the colors changed from orange and red to pink and purple, grateful to be alive and down here in paradise.  I knew that the solution could be found with money, so I'm still a lucky duck.  As I jumped out the the truck, I heard a horrible noise and felt the sting run through the board to my bones.  I was not careful enough getting out, and now have another ding to fix on the topside of my board just under the nose.  Puta . 

    The walk back was rough as well.  My legs were chafing.  All three of them.  Somehow, out of all 5 boardshorts I have, only one pair has a zipper to safely hold money while i surf.  These are the ones I've been wearing too much I guess.  It was a long walk home.

    But I finished my book last night and it was really good, and this morning since I couldn't surf I cleaned the yard like a good Latino and Mackenzie made a killer breakfast, like a good Latina does ;)
 
    Then, I made a delicious pitcher of lemonade straight from the trees in the yard.

    You get what I'm saying?  Life has given me lemons!  I love you all and hope that someday, everyone will have the opportunity to take two month surf vacations, or whatever kind of break from work you want.  Because we weren't put here to work.  We're here to live and love everyday.  To make mistakes and learn lessons.  To find out who will be there for us when the going gets tough.

 Thanks again for loving and supporting the two of us, take care of each other.

Nico




   

Friday, October 11, 2013

Waves and Wipeouts

    AHHH, the good life.  This is what I've been daydreaming about for years.  Since riding my first ocean-wave aboot 25 seasons back thanks to a buddy Dave Rolland taking me out on borrowed gear.  But now I'm floating in cloud 9.  No, not in the Philipines, Puerto Escondido ! =P.  The site that is called the Mexican Pipeline really is a surfer's paradise.  Nowhere else that I've been has as much going for it as this beautiful stretch of coast in Oaxaca state.  With delicious Mexican cooked meals for somewhere between 2-5 dollars, coconut trees on every corner, and a 5 minute walk to a long left-handed pointbreak, a guy could hardly ask for more. . . But somehow, >I haven't even started on the wave that so enticed me to schedule a 2 month vacation out of the blue.
 * we were planning on backpacking after the snowboard season of '13-14 *

    It's named Playa Zicatela, meaning place of big thorns, in the native Nahuatl language.  Here culminates a destination filled with dreams, opportunity, and carnage (a price to pay for the previous ).  Every night while we prepare for bed, the dull roar of 15ft+ set waves crashing into shallow sandbars competes with thunder rolling through the Sierra del Sur mountain range to our nor, nor'east.  While most of the area is aware that surfers from all over the world come to their pueblo to have a go at one of the most powerful waves on planet, not many know the distinct feeling of fear and excitement, fighting one another in a ball of anxiety & bursting from every cell in the body.  Walking on water may not be possible today, but I'm confident that gliding on water will never go out of style.


    Today is Friday, the 11th of October.  There is a big swell currently smashing the south coast of Mexico.  In the 8 days that we've been here, we have had two days with peaks of around 20ft.  These have both fallen on Friday, and I regret to inform the reader that I have no hero stories to tell from these days.  No, I have wussed-out during both swells' peak.  

  ...
   This is hard to talk about, but I'm my biggest critic (that I know of, maybe there are some haters_?) ,  and living with myself is the hardest part about not surfing today or last Friday.  This is not to say that i haven't caught some great waves on the days leading up to and fading away from the peak, it is just to let you know that I'm not the beast-tamer that one might hope.  I must let you know that I've accepted this fact, and a bar-equal feeling is when we woke up 2 hours after sunrise and saw two freshly fallen mangos being pecked by the birds in our yard (it's the very end of the season, supply & demand yo!) 
   
    Last Friday, I woke up knowing it would be big-time.  Mackenzie insisted on doing her ''insanity'' workout while it wasn't too hott (like 80, not 90), so I made the 10 minute bus trip to Zicatela by myself.  After being dropped off by the bus, I walked the 2 or 3 blocks down the hill , watching in awe as wave after wave bore down on the shore, each greater in heigth and mass than the last.  By the time I got to the palapas providing drinks and shade alongside the beach, I had already talked myself out of surfing.  I didn't think my 6'8'' had the length to paddle into one of these monsters!  Every 300 yard long closeout verified my decision to tuck my tail and catch a ride to my homebreak, la punta.  I watched for an hour, as wave after wave closed out the whole quarter mile long beach, occasionally staying open perfectly for a few seconds, to allow a few surfers the barrel of their life. 

 *I have since learned that at 1/4- 1/2 the size , near 100 people will be competing for the same 4 or 5 wave sets as you, and it's not worth ever going to, unless for a surf lesson, or a lesson on patience. *

    ...

    Today's wimp-out was foreseen.  Early this week when I saw the swell forecast, I told Mackenzie it would probably be too big, and that we'd spend the morning watching surf and drinking cold ones or something you'd expect tourists to do that have no reason to have regret watching natural perfection.  .  .  Unfortunately, the last week I've been building my confidence (going on bigger and bigger waves) , and had planned on surfing today.  There are always inside nuggest to be surfed right?  Well this morning I woke up about 45 minutes b4 dawn with Kenzie at full alert.  Apparently the bike had fallen over, and she thought it could be a clumsy early morning robbery.  That's not really the point I want to make, but it was a poor start, and a feeling of gripe (sickness) had snuck into my throat and inner being.  After not being able to fall back to sleep, I went downstairs to make some honey/lemon tea and wax my board (we got some of the best honey from a lady with bees- $6 a liter).  During the cup, I felt that my physical body was exhausted.  Unable to perform %100 in critical conditions that call for full focus and strength.  I'm happy to say that I got over my self-loathing quicker this Friday than the last, and happily went down to watch the heroes put their lives on the line with each passing set.  This was followed by an amazing buffet style lunch at our Israeli friends cabin, composing of black beans, salad, and fresh Schnitzel !  OOOOh so good!  Pictures of the surf and food will be posted soon :)

    ....

    So Mackenzie is over being at the computer place, but I gotta let you know about a few fun waves and wipeouts i've gotten myself into first, and I'll close some deets (details grandma) about our place we're renting that makes Oaxaca so beautiful.  

   ....
  
    Ok so in laymens terms, getting barreled means to be surrounded by moving water, and to exit without harm .  This is the goal of every surfer (at least it should be!)  The best way is to exit through the end of the tunnel, but will be counted if exiting under the falling curtain of a close-out wave.  I am down here to make it out of barrels.  This is the destination, but everyone knows it's the journey that really makes a trip.  It's been a great journey so far, and even though I've made it out of two tubes so far (one via doggy-door, one via the end of the tube),  I still haven't got the firehose spray exit I so want.  I realize that today was a good opportunity, but there is plenty of force and size every other day of the week to spit me out of a turquoise cavern.  

    Let me tell you, if I had the energy to surf twice each day, and still make it to the internet place to post about it, I would.  Each session is full of ups-and-downs.  Each encounter with the townsfolk on the way to and from is unique and full of fresh fruit, laughs, and misunderstandings .  Each day has its' own way, and I wish you were here to experience it.  I wish I could pack each one of my friends and family down here to enjoy the amazing lifestyle under the sun and surf.  So here are a few waves I remember from the first week+ of surf

.1st Session Notes:

.. Praying the whole paddle out. Prayers of peace and protection.  I make it to the lineup with other surfers.  Prayers of gratitude.

.. 1st wave in a year= made drop, slow turn into barrel and then pitched from board onto shallow sandbar

.. 2nd wave= called into by latino yelling GO GO GO in english, in accent. Now i MUST go.  It's a left.  Frontside for me.  Didn't make the steep drop.  Faceplant on perfect wave.  Now smiling cuz got 1st real beat down on shallow sandbar in what feels like forever. water temp 86 degrees!

.. 3rd wave= Steep backside drop, i see the same latin guy from my peripheral paddling back out, watching.  The wave holds off and slows down long enough for me to do a turn and cut back into the power section, I hop up high on face of wave and grab rail to steady balance and try to make it down the line. The wave runs and i'm left riding into darkness. Latin guy sees and gives props. The girlfriend who is sunbathing sees wave and gives props later :)

.. Somewhere around the 6th or 7th wave I am happy with a late morning session and call it good.  A great first day back to the sea.  I'm Perfect.  I catch a wave and hit an edge trying to pull into draining left barrel.  I watch as the lip crashes into my chest, picking me up and throwing me back onto the ocean floor, pinning me there for a few long seconds.  I surface to my board in one piece.  The next wave comes in and is 2wice the size it has been.  Fear returns to gut. I get a good beating, and the following wave measured the same 14ft or so, and managed to whip me onto the beach. To safety.  To my beautiful girlfriend. To cocos and mangos.  Will think about fear later.

. Early week note:

I have been surfing ok backside, but can't seem to surf frontside to my ability.  Steep drops have not been made that I know I can make.  Also been hitting edges and wiping out more than necessary.  Will continue to work on correcting tiny mistakes.

. Mid week note:

Surf has dropped a bit.  Still overhead barrels.  Making most of the drops now.  Have been taking off on waves sideways, and pulling straight into barrels, skipping the bottom turn.  Still the only barrel recorded (in my mind) has been a small head high nugget that a boogie-boarder dropped in on, forcing me to exit via the doggy-door (under the lip).  Lip knocks one of my feet off the board.  Desperate for a successful barrel, i count it.  *author laughs at bitty barrels when in waters known for tubes you can drive a semi through*

. Today's note:

    Yesterday's surf was big.  It was the first day of my early morning wake up with the sun routine.  There weren't as many waves, and about 100 guys in the water, spread out through three A-frame peaks (this means the surfer has two options: left breaking wave, or right).  I choose to sit at less-crowded peak that offers mostly big left breaking closeouts, occasionally staying open for a good one-timer.  I catch a couple smaller waves (solid overhead and a half closeout walls) to warm-up.  Then I position myself for a big set wave. 

     My first attempt for a big juicy barrel was met with the morning's hard offshore winds.  Unfortunately my brazitos (little arms) weren't able to counter the strong wind, and I was left around the top of the wave with the lip (as opposed to pushing down and dropping the face).  I found myself on top of the lip, standing on the board but not on the wave.... I kicked the board away from where the lip would detonate, and dropped.  It felt like i landed on cement, and a small car landed on me right after that. 

    I paddle back out, knowing i need to paddle faster, and get up to my feet earlier.  Twenty minutes later, i have another chance.  I make it to my feet.  A person drops in on me. I hoot them off.  He pulls out.  I pull in.  The lip throws out in front... Im in it. I drag my left hand to slow myself under the curl, and lean my weight to my back foot to stall some more.  I ride it another 50 yards, 30 of which I'm where I want to be: in the shade.  I come out of the tube fading low to the bottom, and reapproach the lip by throwing my tail at it, hoping to shed the speed.  It worked but not as smooth as I hoped, and I didn't stay connected to the board to ride that turn back to the bottom.  But I didn't care, I got TUBED!

I paddle straight out and have now entered the next lineup over.  My wave took me to the next peak, and the most powerful peak in Puerto Escondido: A dominant right hand break that throws out as far as it does tall.  A square barrel some call it.  The lineup for the left starts another 50 yards down, and on this day there are over 60 people with surfboards or boogie boards hoping to get the barrel of a lifetime.  I see Rusty and Greg Long.  Two heroes of mine.  *Youtube the names if you want to see some pros do work.* 

Suddenly it feels much bigger. I mean, Greg Long is in the lineup, it must be HUGE!  

I take position in the lineup for the right, sitting underneath Greg some 8 yards or so, and maybe 5th person in to the right, basically just hoping for whatever scrap comes my way.  I don't want to paddle battle any of the other 5 dozen folks who have waited in line for the last 2 or 3 hours. . . Somehow, after 10 minutes of silence, a big lump passes by Greg and he watches it as if it has meaning.  It was mine, there was only one other person who might have a go, but it was mine to be caught.  I paddled as if an Eddie Aikau winner was watching me, scratching to get into a wave whose lip is already feathering from the offshore breeze.  I know I'm late, but I know I can't pull out.. I push down on my board and take the elevator drop. . Somewhere around the bottom I grab my outside rail with my left hand, and reach for the face of the wave with my right.  The lip is throwing out in front of me and I'm surrounded by water but riding dry,  just as I grab the wave to steady myself.  A giant hand reaches out from under the lip and I hear a distinct ''click''.  A super legit underwater camera housing!  Holy smokes I feel like I'm already on the cover of some propaganda filled surf mag, and I lose my focus on exiting the wave.  

    The smashing I took was large, but nothing compared to what was about to come... 

    Many people surf Puerto Escondido without a leash when it is big, because it is one of the only places you want to be separated from your lifeline: the surfboard.  The surfboard can drag you into the torrential bullying of the wave, whereas when you're swimming you have the option of diving deep under the wave, and surfacing in the deep water quite easily.  . . 

But I prefer to have the leash on because it offers a guide to the surface and air, when a lot of the beatings at a good beach break will leave a person wondering which way is up.  

So anyway, I find my leash connected to my left ankle, and climb the thing till I touch board. Then i grab it and we float to the surface together.  All good right?  

WRONG!  

I turn to see the next wave of the set, quite large, on track to land on my head.  I had what felt like forever paddle out and meet my doom, but if I had paddled towards the beach it would have been worse.  The offshore wind held the wave up longer than neccessary, and even though I knew I had no way of duckdiving deep enough to escape its' ferocity , i tried.  Instantly I felt as if my body were being ripped into a million pieces, and thrown into a 15 ft washing machine cycle set to permanent press.  The ocean floor was actually soothing this time, because at least now i knew where i was. ! 

Anyway, I came out of the ocean after the next wave did the same thing, and I was grinning like I just won the Eddie myself .  Those beatings were a small price to pay for the Love of the Mother Ocean.


But hey, they're kicking me off the computer to shut down for the Mexico vs Panama match! Love you guys and thanks for listening and supporting me/us!

Nico



Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Journal from Day 4


    Wow. It's been just three days since we arrived in Puerto and yet it feels like we've been here a month.  Getting set up and accustomed to the way of living *minus the hard work* has been quite an experience.  In some ways, it is very similar to travelling Peru & Ecuador, or moving to Puerto Rico, but this trip has its' own unique vibe and feel like no other.  Putting ourselves in a cute little cabin five blocks from incredible surf for the next two months comes with a natural "honey-do" list. I'm not saying it's rough, I'm just saying we've been busy.  There are waves to be catch and naps to be taken.
    At this point the only person catching waves is me, Nico.  This will not be a repeat of South America, when Mackenzie was too conservative with her $$ to buy a board, but it is a difficult process to find the right one.  Especially when the type of board she needs to learn on is almost a rarity around here.  There are a ton of boards to buy for the experienced surfer, but finding a funboard (a cross between longboard and short) is tough.  Most of the beginner boards are squandered by shops to use as rentals or for lessons, so it's been a chore to find something that will work at a decent price.  Today we spent over two hours driving around looking with a local friend we made.
    His name is Edgar and he's an artist that sells his works on the malecon (street closest to the water, pronounced mah-leh-cone).  We met him the first night we were here, while I was going from shop to shop looking for boards.  Mackenzie bought some beautiful feather earings from him for like $6 and I got some papers for later.  Edgar insisted we wait to buy a board, until he took us around to various friends' places who might sell us boards for much cheaper.
    But I couldn't resist. We had just watched the Mexican Pipeline do it's "pre-swell dance" during the last hour of sunset, and I knew I needed to have a board for the following day.  So at the 8th or 9th shop , after scoping out every single board at each place, I found a diamond in the rough.  It was tucked away in the far back corner, hidden behind a stack of rundown boards.  This lady happens to have the only funboard in all of Oaxaca's coastline (so it seems), so we tried to bargain for a sweet deal if we purchased both.  Well, we were tired from the previous 36 hours of travel (felt like 3 days), so when she offered to take 400 pesos off her asking price on the board for Mackenzie, we thought it was a good deal.  This is about $32 US, on a board that she originally wanted $256.  That seems a bit high for an old tank of a board, but after a full day of searching and coming up empty, we were ready to make the deal.  Fortunately, the atm wouldn't give Mackenzie cash, so the purchase wouldn't go down.  I say fortunately because after sleeping overnight, I was able to decipher this ladie's scamming trick.  I'm not sure why I didn't catch it the night before, but here it is: she'd knock off 400 pesos, but then wouldn't give Mackenzie a leash with the board.  The leash is 400 pesos!
    Anyway, I still had enough cash *efectivo en espanol* (and quite efective no?) to purchase the diamond from her, to use the following day.  It is a 6'8'' white board, with red, yellow, and orange paint on the top part of the bottom side.  There are no previous pressure dings on the top of the board where I stand, and more importantly there are no dings or marks on the bottom part where the board will have contact with the ocean.  When scouting for a board, I was looking for two sizes more or less; one board for biggish waves, and a board for the smaller waves.  Some of the locals were saying the waves would be 9 ft the following day, so I knew the board I needed soonest would be the bigger board-to help paddle into some mini-beasts. The cost for the board you ask?  almost 200 even.
    Did the board work , you're thinking?  Well yes sir or madam it sure did :) .  We took a $2 taxi home (2 miles probably) and I waxed that baby up.  I was hoping to get out of bed at first light, but that wasn't even close to happening.  When I hit the sack (shielded by a mosquito net we set up that afternoon), I knew it would be work just to get up before noon! ...  But i did manage to wake up in the 10 oclock hour (8am body time, or PST) and hustle down the beach a good 15-20 minute walk for my first surf sesh in over a year!  OOOOOOO Tan bueno fue!  Translation: OOOOO It was sooo good !
    I'd been having nerves the previous night, and was trying to recall every great barrel or wipeout I've experienced in other powerful waves, as to reassure myself I'm good enough. . The nerves were with me (and are returning now as I sit here listening to what sounds like thunder on the opposite side of the bay) as I chose a spot to paddle out between peaks, trying to time it so none of the 7-9 ft waves would land on my head.  Now, a seven foot wave doesn't usually frighten the sweat out of me, but at this break you really don't want to be under the lip of a falling any foot wave.  The bottom of the ocean goes from very deep to very shallow in a matter of seconds (depth in spanish is profundidad, like profound),  creating a super hollow wave, & collapsing what feels like the entire ocean onto a hard layer of sand just a few feet at most beneath the surface.  This is called "the impact zone"  and is to be avoided at all costs.  It is this , "impact zone" that kept me from surfing there today, but that is a story for later. Cuidase. 

Paz y Amor,


Nico

An electronic letter home last week.

Hey just wanted to drop  you a line.  We{re in Oaxaca City waiting for our night bus to Puerto Escondido. The flight was smooth, as was the airport stuff. We didn{t have a line at all for checking luggage, entering the gates (first time I{ve ever not had to wait at least a half hour to do the body scan, (and i choose to get the patdown instead)  . Oh and this computer doesn{t seem to have apostraphes. 

Let{s see, the flight was good into LA. We didn{t even have to look for a new terminal cuz i think it was the same plane from seattle to LA as it was from LA to Mexico City, so that was convenient.. We both got MAYBE a half hour sleep on the plane. It was only a 3 hour flight, and we jumped ahead 2 hours, so when we arrived at the biggest city i{ve ever been in, we were feeling like it was 4:30, and we were pooped. But some adrenaline kicked in and i found my voice.  Im picking up right where i left off, it doesn{t feel like even half a year has passed. There were 3 authorized taxi companies trying to get our business so i had em guess what day i was born on and i went with the closest (actually with the only one who felt like playing the game and having an early morning laugh). The cost was a bit under $20 when converted to US.  We could have gone across the street and payed less, but it wouldn{t have been as safe and secure, so we both felt fine with the fee.  

As soon as we pulled out of the airport (it was JUST starting to get light out) , there were police everywhere and army trucks with gunner turrets .  Crowds were gathered 50 meters away from the po-pos .  I asked the driver what was happening and he informed us that it{s the teachers protesting the presidents' new bill.  I guess he is raising taxes on a bunch of things and they're pissed.(I found the apostraphe button). So no one has gone to school this school year. They've come in from around the country and get to protesting very early in the morning, blocking the main arteries of the city.

We were lucky to make it through before they blocked the highway, and were dropped off where we asked to be: at the South Bus Terminal, about a half hour drive through what felt like any other big Latin American city I've been in; San Juan, Quito, Lima, Guayaguil etc.  Unfortunately, the terminal was the 1st class bus terminal , and we weren't getting to Oaxaca for under $40 USdollars . . After checking prices on all 3 companies that drive to our planned destination, we bit the bullet and asked the next elderly lady walking by which bus was most comfortable. 

*I think it should be said that I tried to negotiate terms with both the taxi companies, and the bus companies.. It's not like buying earings or sweaters though* 

Anyway, the drive was beautiful and scenic (when we weren't catchin zzz's).  It was a lot of dry mountains, with its' share of green trees that survive on the timely monsoons.  Then when the bus would drop into the valleys, we were given views of corn field after corn field; each in its' own stage of growth.  I favor this drive to the super arid dry sandy views that the Peruvian Coast offers west of the Andes, although I was wondering where the wildlife was; i only saw one bird the whole drive.  Maybe there was a pack of coyotes slaying a fawn while i peacefully slept. 


As for the buses and the roads in comparison to Ecuador and Peru: the 1st class bus isn't their most expensive option, but still cost 4x as much as Peru's cheap buses.  It definitely ranks nicer than Ecuador's, but at 10x the price.  And the road was fabulous.  Four lanes throughout the whole drive almost, and they even put guardrails where you might go off a cliff!

.... 

Ok so around 3pm we arrived in Oaxaca City and felt much more comfortable.  It is a cute medium size capitol city fit good n' snug in a big valley, with old colonial church buildings every couple kilometros .  

We checked the times for the next bus to Puerto Escondido and found out that our only options were 9:30 and 11 pm, and again for a price that we were not ready to hear. . So outside we went, searching for a phone to call our hopeful landlord.  

It took a couple tries dialing out, but with the help of the kind joven (young person) (everyone calls us joven) , I was able to get Stefan on the line.  He had told me he owns a cafe in Oaxaca City , so we wanted to connect with him and maybe pay rent to him in person..  Well, he turns out to be a gringo from Colorado/Germany that speaks ok Spanish, and when he heard my refreshed spanish on the phone, he thought I was a salesman of some sort.  So i found myself speaking with his Oaxacan girlfriend, and not quite realizing that he'd passed the phone off.  (I thought Stefan was just a feminine sounding guy).     So we agreed to meet outside our bus terminal in 10, and yet forgot to describe ourselves. 

But that didn't really matter, because we stick out like sore thumbs with our huge backpacks and my old camera case around my neck. (and we aren't nearly as cafe as the rest of the people).   .. So to my surprise , ten minutes later a white dude (not a fem. latin guy) has his head out the window hollaring ''NICO! ''  , and gets out of the car to shake my hand and offer a friendly , ''Whats up?''  

He called his caretaker in Puerto, (PE from now on), and in worse spanish than ive spoken in many months, communicated that we'd be there tomorrow and to let us in with the key, and that we've paid the first month.  He and his friendly lady, Paulina, gave us a ride to one of the towns' most famous parks to kill some time, and watch live theater and music , before taking the 25 cent bus back to the ADO station where we now sit across the street from.  We are both well fed after eating dinner consisting of soup, rice, and a big carne filled torta, along with fresh melon juice, and ready for our night passage to PE.  Tomorrow we will settle into our new home, and go searching for boards, hopefully to find the right one in time for the upcoming swell this week :)  

Thanks for loving and supporting us,

Cuidase